Jil Sander, pioneer of eighties and nineties fashion fashion-for-working women aesthetic, returns to high fashion in a decade when the competitive market share of women designers - Phoebe Philo at Céline, Stella McCartney, Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen - is well established.
Her program notes said that she intended to "Reset to zero". The show majored on all the purist design pieces her constituency expects: white shirts, inventive-but-not-freaky tailoring, coats - clothes, in general, that do not display the body in any way that will compromise he woman who is going about her business (which is probably in business).
What she had right were the proportions and the colours: elongated, curved, sleeveless jackets; jackets and coats with three-quarter-length sleeves; narrow pants; A-line skirts; pristine sleeveless white shirts, also cut on a forgiving A-line. Dressy evening has never been in her vocabulary, but toward the end, she showed white dresses and skirts implanted with plastic reflective discs - a neat, minimal translation of the current sixties/space-age trend.
Jill Sander
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